About these pictures: A man in traditional headress walks down a street in Bethlehem. A look at the hills around Bethlehem. The moon sets over Bethlehem early in the morning. The children saints as depicted in the chapel at Bethlehem University.
The day started well with an early morning visit to the Church of the Nativity. Eleven early risers headed out on foot at 5:30 a.m. to see the central church of Bethlehem. We were not able to visit the grotto (cave) where Jesus was born due to some services that were going on there. We explored the rest of the church however, and also walked up the street to the Milk Grotto, learning that would not be open until 8:00. So, we had to settle for an invigorating early morning walk and seeing the Church of the Nativity pre-dawn, at a time when the line from "O Little Town of Bethlehem" about the dark streets and 'how still we see thee lie' was true.
After a large breakfast we boarded the bus, went to the church by a much longer route (the walking route is far too narrow for a bus, and most of it is off-limits to any traffic) and found the grotto was still not available. We had Mass scheduled for 9:00 in an adjoining cave, the chapel of St. Jerome. St. Jerome lived there for many years (I think he died in 422 A.D.) and it was there that he translated the bible from Hebrew and Greek into Latin, known as the Vulgate edition, which used in the Catholic church until about 50 years ago.
We were on a tight schedule that got too tight. We had hoped to visit the Shepherds Fields later int the morning, but we also have an 11:00 a.m meeting at Bethlehem University. There we visited the chapel, which has a theme of Jesus as a child. The walls contain partraits of dozens of child saints -- many of the martyrs, such as the Holy Innocents, but many other child martrys from many countries. We saw a video about the University and its programs, but it also contained some material about the difficulty it and its students have as a result of some security measures invoked by Israel -- primarily for Israel's security. Two students and a teacher also spoke and answered many questions about this controversial subject.
Lunch was at a restaurant that caters to tourist. It looks like a large caravan tent inside. The main dish was chicken, a mixture of lamb and beef, and french fries with a mixtures of some vegetables.
After eating we shopped at a cooperative store for souvenirs near the Israeli security wall which virtually surrounds Bethlehem. This is near Rachel's tomb, which is now on the Israeli side of the wall. Quite a few things were bought there, and many purchases have also been made from street vendors -- probably even more aggressive than I've seen since 2004.
Another attempt to visit the birth cave failed, so we walked down the street to see the Milk Grotto. This is a non-biblical site, followed a 6th century legend that Mary and Joseph stopped there or hid there on their flight to Egypt. Mary breastfed Jesus, and a drop of milk fell to the floor of the cave, making all the rock white. It has been a site of many miracles. In recent years a devotion has developed from there for couples experiencing infertility. The Franciscan there claims over 1,800 children have been born to previously infertile couples in the past ten years who have used this devotion, as well as seven cancer cures.
After one final check on the church of the nativity, we boarded the bus for the short ride back to the hotel.
What was the issue at the Church of the Nativity? It seems to be the result of a disagreement between the Greek Orthodox and the Armenians over control and cleaning of certain areas of the church. I will try to research what it is all about. The Church of the Nativity is controled by three groups -- the Roman Catholics, the Greek Orthodox and the Armenian -- perhaps that is the Armenian Orthodox Church. Right now there is tension between the latter two groups.
It was a windier day, but frequently clear and warm. By 5:00 the wind was very strong, causing trouble for some street food vendors, blowing their stainless steel covers about. It will be a good night to stay in. Card games might break out.
Plans for tomorrow are being changed. Some of us will start very early. I was invited to attend (concelebrate perhaps?) a Mass in the grotto at 4:55 a.m. I was told I could bring some people with me, so some of us will check it out. If it works, it will give them a chance to visit the cave for some time in a prayerful atmosphere. After breakfast we leave this hotel -- all bags need to be packed earlier -- and go to Shepherd's Fields, which is a rural space where the visit of the angels to the shepherds is commemorated. Then we travel to the Mediterranean coast, visit Ceasarea (see Acts 10 and a few other places) and Joppa, which is just south of Tel Aviv. Joppa has been a town for some 5000 years. It is mentioned in Job 1; 2 Chronicles notes that the cedars of Lebanon used for building the temple were unloaded at that port, and again in Acts 10 we see several stories of Peter in Joppa. After that, we continue to the Sea of Galilee, where we have Mass on the Mount of Beatitudes. We will spend the succeeding two nights in Tiberius.
I see we now have nine followers! Thank you! We will pray for you; please pray for us.
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